Beate Allerton Travel Destinations

Achmelvich Bay is a gem set in the remote wilderness of Sutherland, North West Scotland. Its campsite, the Shore Camping and Caravan Site lies three miles north-west of Lochinver at the end of a single track road. Nestling below a headland this grassy site is set by the sea with its own rocky inlet. And it is only two minutes walk from the award-winning Achmelvich Beach with its brilliant white sand and luminous turquoise waters.

We started exploring the moment we arrived. As the kids love scrambling we raced each other up to the cairn at the top of the little headland and were rewarded with breathtaking views all round. This is one of the most sparsely populated areas in Europe and does have the distinct feel of ‘the land that time forgot’. It is a totally unique landscape of undulating hummocks and lochs as far as the eyes can see, interspersed by majestic isolated mountains that rise up straight from the ground towards the sky. You can’t get more dramatic than Suilven, an ‘Inselberg’ or ‘Island Mountain’ which towers like a fortress above this ancient land. At around 3000 million years the rocks around here are the oldest found in Britain.

Looking out to sea across The Minch we could just about identify the faint outlines of the Isle of Lewis on the horizon and gazing along the coastline north, we noticed deep gullies and tiny coves hiding away yet more white sandy beaches. Scenery apart, what makes this location an unforgettable experience is the range of vibrant colours, from the intense green of the grass and the vivid blues of sea and sky, to the white shell beaches and the fiery golden sunsets.

The following morning we were scrambling across the stripy grey rocks in search of rock-pools. The kids found plenty of anemones, hermit crabs and spiky sea urchins. Meantime, I watched Arctic Terns plunge-diving into the sea and shags dipping under the surface in search for breakfast. In the distance three seals were leisurely bobbing up and down. It is not uncommon to spot porpoises, dolphins or Minke Whales. Even Killer Whales have been sighted near Handa Island further north.

“Look, a castle!” My son suddenly pointed at a curious small building further up on the cliff. I dismissed it as a ruined World War II look-out point. Needless to say he had guessed right! This strange concoction was in fact the quaint miniature Achmelvich Castle, built in 1952 by newly qualified architect David Scott. The story goes that he had been so taken by the scenery that he vowed to build his dream castle here. Made from concrete it comes complete with 14 small square windows, a fire place with a double chimney and a concrete bed! Apparently, David Scott stayed at his castle for one weekend and then left.

We spent the rest of the weekend playing around the campsite and Achmelvich beach, and exploring every nook and cranny below the cliff-tops. The countryside rangers often hold guided walks and there is an excellent information hut in the beach car park. We were happy just to potter around building sand-castles, collecting shells, interesting stones and dipping our feet into the icy water. Other people I spoke to have come for the cycling, water-sports and of course, wildlife watching. We had our own share of that when we observed a family of otters feasting on a salmon, just after 10pm.

Sadly, our weekend was quickly coming to an end, but there was one final treat in store for us. From the cliff tops above the campsite we were able to watch the awesome display of the setting sun as it turned the entire sky into the deep orange of dying embers, making a dramatic exit as it sank into the sea like a ball of fire.

We bought our supplies in Lochinver but between June and September the site shop is open daily from 9 am and the Take-Away serves food in the evening. If you are coming up through Ullapool, a wider selection of groceries is available in the Somerfield supermarket there. Also worth trying is the Lochinver Larder which serves a interesting range of savoury and sweet pies.

All pitches on the campsite are on grass, mostly level. There is a basic but clean toilet block with free hot showers, a washing-up room, chemical disposal unit and launderette. During our stay there was plenty of space for the kids to play, cycle and scooter around. For two nights we paid £18 which includes our converted camper van, one adult and two children. The website provides a detailed price list.

Address: 106 Achmelvich, Lochinver, Sutherland, IV27 4JB
Telephone: (+44) 01571 844393
or (+44) 01571 844782 - No email

Going camping on the whim of a vaguely promising weather report has the distinct advantage of discovering previously unconsidered locations. And chancing upon the friendly and relaxed Cruachan Farm Caravan and Camping Park was certainly a great find. The site lies three miles on the north side of Loch Tay, Scotland’s 6^th largest loch. Set in around four acres of open grassland and shaded woodland it is overlooked by the magnificent Ben Lawers group, the highest and most extensive mountain massif in the Southern Highlands.

“Pitch anywhere you like.” The warden made a sweeping gesture. While we set up, our kids took themselves off to the small playground by a stream, quickly befriending the other children. In fact, whenever we returned to base, the two of them vanished, giving us the rare opportunity of reading a book.

On our evening reconnaissance stroll we were delighted to find that the campsite had access to a lovely, secluded stretch of Loch Tay. The shore here is riddled with dense woodland, small bays and streams which are ideal for fishing, late night barbecues or simply playing around.

From here a path also led to another unexpected discovery: the hospitable Boathouse Restaurant & Freehouse and Loch Tay Marina, open for boat hire or as a launching spot for your own boat. We vowed to bring our dinghy next time.

“Shall we try that one today?” I asked the following morning, pointing towards the pinnacled ridge of 3619ft/1103m Beinn Ghlas. Its Gaelic name translates as ‘greenish-grey hill’; my preferred interpretation relates it to the rocks of mica-schist which form most of the mountain. The kids were enchanted by the glistening stones along the track and turned the hill-walk into a treasure hunt. We picked up so many beautiful samples with the result of our rucksacks weighing twice as much at the end of the day!

Starting off at the Ben Lawers Visitor Centre the easy to follow path took us up onto the south ridge and from then on all the way to the top. Most walkers tend to dismiss Beinn Ghlas as a less significant mountain, only taken en-route to the top of Ben Lawers. However, it is a rewarding peak in its own right, and classified as a Munro, a Scottish mountain over 3000ft. After a final steep climb the kids proudly placed their stones on the summit cairn. The views were fantastic. Whichever way we turned we saw imposing mountain ranges stretching all the way towards the horizon in fading shades of grey and hazy blue, their peaks resembling stylised crests of waves.

The following day we decided to take it easy, with plenty of ice-cream breaks and a bit of history at the Scottish Crannog Centre in Kenmore. The shores of Loch Tay have been lived on by people since the Iron Age. They were the architects of the crannog, a circular type of loch dwelling. Built on massive wooden stilts, this unique construction sits out on the water like an island. Diving archaeologists have discovered around twenty crannogs in Loch Tay and finds included textiles, jewelry, food and wooden dishes.

The Scottish Crannog Centre itself is a reconstruction. It took three years to complete, the result of puzzling together pieces from excavations and sheer guesswork. The centre excels at bringing the past to life. Our period guide expertly wove interesting snippets about iron-age life and archaeological facts into the tour. We were allowed to touch anything, try on wool tunics or skins and ask lots of questions. The kids loved the hands-on craft activities like wood-turning, stone-drilling, grain-grinding, and the absolute highlight: fire-making.

We celebrated the end of a great weekend and the kids’ first Munro at the Boathouse Restaurant & Freehouse. Being able to sit on the veranda in the warm evening sunshine with open views across Loch Tay made the meal an experience to remember. The campsite also has a restaurant, as well as a basic shop. Nearby Killin has two small supermarkets plus restaurants and pubs.

All pitches are on grass, either level or on sloping ground. The site is popular with weekend campers and it can get busy but this did not disturb the friendly atmosphere. for us. The shower-block is adequate and generally clean but when in heavy use there can be a queue. We paid £10 per night, which included our converted campervan, two adults and two children.

Cruachan Farm Caravan & Camping Park
North Loch Tay Side, By Killin
Perthshire
FK21 8TY
Scotland, UK

Facilities: pitches for 40 tents, 10 tourers; electric hook-up, gas, free showers, dishwashing and laundry, playground. Details listed on website.

Cruachan Farm Camping and Caravan Park is situated on the A827, 3.5 miles east of Killin

Sandend Caravan Park on the Moray Firth in North-East Scotland is a small and secluded site. Tucked away just off the A98 between Portsoy and Cullen, this is a place that tends to be stumbled across by accident but never forgotten thereafter. The bay has a beautiful beach that sweeps in a long curve from the fishing village of Sandend towards where the green fields spill over steep, red sandstone cliffs.

“Would you like to be right by the beach?” The warden nodded towards the spades and buckets I had just bought at the reception. He personally led us to a pitch with open views across the bay. As a conservation village Sandend has remained comparatively untouched by tourism. A tightly packed cluster of old fishermen’s cottages, it is perched above one of Scotland’s smallest harbours. Its tall smokehouses are proud representatives of the local fishing tradition.

It was a great pleasure to be able roll out of our sleeping bags onto the vast beach, even more so as the blue sky and early sunshine promised a scorcher of a day. While making breakfast, the kids were busy digging deep holes with the enthusiasm of puppies in search of a bone. And our Dutch neighbours excitedly told me about the bottlenose dolphins they had spotted the afternoon before. It is very easy to spend the whole weekend on the beach, swimming and surfing, or simply lazing in the sunshine.

When it became too hot we headed eight miles east to Macduff Aquarium. Featuring local marine life, the impressive kelp forest tank allows for an up close and personal view. We were entranced by the thornback rays, conger eels and cuckoo wrasses as they were gliding past us. The kids loved stroking the starfish and operating the camera inside the kelp tank. Our marine life experience continued well beyond the aquarium. Just as we were about to settle down to dinner, someone shouted. “The dolphins are back!” It is common to spot the odd fin in the Moray Firth but these dolphins were in an exuberant mood. They kept leaping up into the air, enthralling us with an amazing performance of backward and forward flips.

The following morning started off less well. A thick sea fog known as the Har had crept in overnight. Unlike a common fog which descends and then sits motionless, the Har is active, seemingly with a mind of its own. It moves in visible swirls, enveloping trees and overflowing rocky crevices like dry ice from a lab tube. It certainly thwarted our plans to take the cliff top path from Sandend to the ruins of Findlater Castle. Instead, we drove to the official car park. The eerie half mile stroll took us along a track right to the edge of the cliffs. On a fine day it is possible to wander down to the rocky headland and scramble amongst the ruins but we had to be content with the picture on the information board.

Hoping that the Har would lift, we decided to give Duff House in Banff a try. Built in 1740 by well known architect William Adam this is a magnificent Georgian mansion. Unknown to many visitors the building is incomplete, missing the two grand wings which were part of the original design. An argument over escalating costs had stopped the work, the owner never moved into his new home and the story goes that he always pulled down the blinds of his carriage whenever he passed by.

Duff House now serves as an outpost of the National Galleries of Scotland and it is proud to have recently acquired two portraits by Thomas Gainsborough. By the time we completed our tour of the interior, visibility outside had improved. We took the five mile circular walk which first led us into lush woodlands bursting with the fragrance of elderflower blossom and the sight of orange salmonberries. The kids were intrigued by the enormous ice-house and the mausoleum. We continued past rolling farmland, across the lofty Bridge of Alvah above an impressive gorge before returning via the local distillery and Banff Bridge.

We brought our own food but the nearby villages of Cullen, Portsoy, Banff and Macduff have pubs and cafes as well as supermarkets. The campsite has a shop with a small selection of food items.

Pitches are grassy and level, the facilities are excellent and it was very quiet during our stay. A returnable £5 deposit is required for the key to the toilet block and a swipe card issued for a four minute shower.

We paid £18 per night which included our campervan, one adult and two children.

Facilities: 49 pitches in total, some with electric hook-up, dishwashing, laundry, shop, showers operate on swipe card system

By car: From Inverness take the A96 to Aberdeen and turn onto A98 at Fochabers towards Buckie and Cullen. After Cullen turn left at the Sandend sign.

From Aberdeen take the A96 to Huntly, turn onto A97 to Banff and then onto A98 to Portsoy and Cullen. After Portsoy turn right at the Sandend sign.

By rail: First Scotrail runs services between Inverness and Aberdeen with stops at Elgin, Keith and Huntly. Their website provides details of timetables: www.firstgroup.com/scotrail; phone train enquiries on 08457 48 49 50

By bus: Stagecoach provides details of all buses services on their website: www.stagecoachbus.com

Set against the backdrop of the spectacular Cairngorm Massif, Glenmore Caravan and Camping Site is the result of a unique partnership between the Forestry Commission and The Camping and Caravanning Club. This site offers choice pitches next to native woods or in an open setting with mountain views and they all have easy access to Loch Morlich.

Glenmore Forest itself unfurls like a green banner from the lower slopes of Cairngorm Mountain, extending westwards across some 8600 acres of woodland and partially open hillside. Rare pockets of ancient Caledonian Forest can be found here, containing pine, juniper and birch. Great efforts are made to restore and conserve this area for generations to come.

This is an ideal base for hill walking in the unique arctic mountain landscape of the Cairngorms with their extensive upland plateaux, spectacular corries, deep glens and lochs. Despite the presence of other walkers the bleak yet beautiful wilderness continues to exude a mood of timeless solitude and rewards with exhilarating views. Alternatively, at ground level Loch Morlich provides plenty of opportunities for watersports or for simply relaxing on the highest beach in the country.

Bright sunshine and blue sky promised perfect walking conditions. We had planned a circular route up to Cairn Lochan (1215m), part of the Cairngorm Massif, and set off from the ski car park. The Funicular Railway also launches from here, taking visitors up to the Ptarmigan top station in only seven minutes. However, leaving the building is strictly prohibited. On busy days it is not unknown to be scrutinised by a ‘bouncer’ at the main entrance who turns away anyone wearing walking boots and a big rucksack.

A track led us upwards past Coire an Sneachda and Coire an Lochain. With their serrated ridges and tall rocky crags which loom like impregnable citadels these two north-facing corries are awesome. We were glad that our route took us south onto the broad western flank which curves upwards to the summit. At a plateau we stopped to admire the views down to glistening Loch Morlich and the mist filled glens beyond before continuing south-east. A path which is not marked on the map roughly traces the outline of the corrie and soon we made the final, strenuous ascent to the ridge and summit of Cairn Lochan.

Despite meeting the height criterion for a Munro, Cairn Lochan is defined only as a Munro top, a subsidiary summit to Cairn Gorm. However, this does not dim the enjoyment of the sheer dramatic beauty and the satisfaction of traversing this elevating ridge. The views from the top were simply breathtaking. A sea of rugged mountain peaks rolled towards the horizon, with an archipelago of green forests in the west and the blue boundary of the Moray Firth in the north.

The afternoon sun gave the landscape a textured appearance as shadow and light emphasised the features of sharp-edged cliffs, gullies and the ground which is peppered with boulders and clumps of grass. As bare as this area may seem, these mountains are home to rare sub-arctic plants and birds such as the Ptarmigan, Dotterel and Red Grouse.

The cairn-lined path took us north along the edge of the crags. At a small plateau where a track heads up to Cairn Gorm, we carried straight on, descending the steep ridge of Fiacaill-a-Choire Chais on a much used track and soon returned to the car park where the station café provided a much appreciated cup of tea.

Knowing how quickly the weather can change from one day to another we decided to make the most of the sunshine. Back at the campsite we rolled our dinghy down to the beach and launched it onto the calm waters of Loch Morlich. There was not enough wind to sail; instead we rowed out into the centre and then east to where the stream of the Allt Ban flows into the loch, also a popular point for fishing.

Being on the water gave us an entirely new and pleasant perspective of the area and we were so glad to have tried it that evening because the following day heavy rain showers rolled in and did not once stop for a break.

There is a small shop and a café next to the campsite. Aviemore is ten minutes’ drive and offers a choice of hotels, pubs and restaurants.

Pitches: 220 pitches on level grassy or hard-standing ground. Book in advance (minimum two nights) during main season.

Cost: The site has standard and premium rates for different days and seasons, see website for details.

Facilities: Two new toilet and shower blocks, launderette, disabled facilities, electric hook-up, dogs welcome, recycling, cafe & shop nearby. Boats can be kept on pitch or on nearby beach.

Set in the heart of the Cairngorms, Glenmore Forest is located 6 miles east of Aviemore.

By car: From A9 south turn onto B9152 south of Aviemore. At Aviemore, turn right onto B970, towards Coylumbridge. The site is on right 6 miles further on.

By air: The nearest airport is in Inverness; flights operate from major cities in UK. Car hire is available at the airport from Avis and Hertz.

By rail and bus: the Cairngorm Explorer leaflet issued by the Cairngorms National Park Authority has timetables of public transport services. See website for details.