Walks On Royal Deeside

Until the arrival of the railway, the long-distance hill roads crisscrossing the Eastern Grampians were the vital lifeline for most communities. Traders and their laden packhorses travelled along the so-called Mounth routes and every autumn the Drove Roads would resound to the noise of thousands of cattle, driven from their Highland breeding grounds to the markets in the Lowlands. Whisky smugglers were never far, either.

This walk takes you into a remote area along the old Firmounth Road before heading into upland moorland and finishing off with a pleasant stroll along the river Tanar.

Start at the pay and display car park, head down to the road and cross the bridge. At the information board turn right following the wide track with sweeping views across the open countryside towards the forest ahead.

On reaching St. Lesmo’s Chapel take a short detour into the kirkyard. The chapel was erected on the ruins of the old House of Braeloine. It is hard to believe now that this used to be the centre of a thriving community with an inn, a meal mill, several shoemakers’ shops and fifteen houses. The people catered for the passing trade of the Firmounth Road but as trade declined so did the community. St. Lesmo’s Chapel was built in 1872 by banker William Cunliffe Brookes. It boasts two unusual features: the beams, pews, even the lectern have been fashioned to retain the shape of slender tree trunks, and the seats even the steps in front of the altar are all lined with deer skin. The chapel is open for Sunday service over the summer.

Retrace your steps to the gate to join the main track and shortly cross a cattle-grid. At the junction ahead turn right and soon bear left at the fork. Follow this track to the cross roads, head straight towards the wide gate by the forest and follow the track uphill. This forest had almost completely vanished after 4500 years of heavy use by the community. The larch, spruce and broadleaved trees you see around you are in fact part of the replanting programme started in 1953.

Emerging from the forest, you can catch your breath in the seating area to the right where the wild broad-backed mountains with their heathery summits dominate the landscape as far as the eyes can see. For the next 1.5 miles follow the old Firmounth Road. At a fork, just after a curiously inscripted stone by the track, bear left and head up in an easterly direction. After 0.8 miles the path turns north and you make the final steep ascent all the way up to the moorland plateau.

On your left is the heathery summit of Baudy Meg, an anglicized version of the Gaelic name, meaning ‘Hill of Hares’. There are great views towards the east. To the southwest Mount Keen can be easily identified and on a clear day even Lochnagar is visible in the northwest. Follow the level track and soon you will spot two curious stone pillars in the distance amongst the heather towards Duchery Beg. Called the Haunted Stag stones, they are named after the stag that eluded William Cunliffe Brooks until 9 October 1877, when the animal was finally shot from a considerable distance of 267 yards. The two stones represent hunter and hunted at that fatal moment.

Continue along and you will be rewarded with far reaching views north towards Morven, Loch Kinord, and Bennachie some 20 miles away. At the T-Junction turn right, walk along the ridge for a short while and turn off left at the next junction. This track skirts the summit of Black Craig and leads downhill. After a straight, level stretch along a plantation, turn left onto a steep downhill track by the edge of the woodlands. This is in line with the house of Kildhu across the river.

When you reach the T-junction turn right and follow the wide track until you get to a blue and white waymarker. Turn left and head down the embankment towards the river Tanar. Keep your camera handy for the odd pine marten jumping out onto the path or a heron crossing overhead. Turn left again at the next waymarker and follow this pleasant track along the Tanar through shady woodlands of birch and pine, past gorse and broom all the way back to the Braeloine Visitor Centre. This is worth a visit for its exhibition of the history, management and wildlife of Glen Tanar Estate. From here, return to the car park.

Facilities: 15 mixed pitches, 2 caravans for hire, electric hook-up, gas, showers, laundry, games room, children’s play area, sailing, boating, golfing, fishing, ponytrekking and cycling available, dogs welcome

90 pitches, storage facilities, showers, chemical toilet disposal point, laundry, TV room, children’s play area, recreation hall, electric hook-up, gas, dogs welcome

Location: located on the outskirts of the small village of Tarland, 6 miles north of Aboyne,

The town of Ballater marks the end of the Royal Deeside Railway line. Although the original tracks continued beyond to Bridge of Gairn, Queen Victoria felt that it was a stop too close to Balmoral.

Greeting the Royal trains was a great responsibility, especially the difficult task of getting the train to stop exactly where the red carpet had been laid out!

This walk enjoys the countryside which Queen Victoria called her ‘dear paradise’, leading you along the disused railway line, the river Dee and crossing seven bridges around Ballater.

Start from the station car park, turning right onto the A93 to Braemar. At the church and the waymarker, signposting the Seven Bridges Walk turn left into Dundarroch Road. The next waymarker points right into a lane leading you through a residential area and pleasant woodlands of oak trees. Bear right at the waymarker by a pink house and follow the disused railway track that runs parallel to the Dee.

If the glistening water is just too tempting, you can take an alternative route along the riverbank. But be aware that this narrow path will abruptly come to an end at a steep cliff, requiring you to scramble up the embankment. You re-join the original route by the first bridge which crosses a narrow ravine. This spot has been known as the Postie’s Leap ever since a grief-stricken postman jumped to his death, having been jilted on the eve of his wedding.

Follow the path until you reach the next waymarker at Fit O’Gairn. Bear right and walk up to the A93, then turn left to cross the Bridge of Gairn. From here you can enjoy the dramatic view south towards the impressive rock face of Lochnagar.Cross the A93 at the waymarker, walk up a steep bank, turning left at the top. The next stretch leads you through a series of gates, across the Tomintoul Road to a small disused pit south of Balanreich Farm. Along the way may find yourself accompanied by the shrill ‘kleep, kleep’ call of oystercatchers, easily identified by their distinctive long, orange beaks.

Turn left and cross the A93. Turn left again at the waymarker ahead and follow the track all the way to Polhollick Bridge, an excellent spot for a picnic. Erected in 1892 this elegant suspension bridge was sponsored by local Alexander Gordon after he witnessed the tragic death of two friends during a river crossing.

For the return journey, cross the bridge and turn left at the T-junction ahead. Follow the track all the way through the pine-scented Dalhefour Wood. As you emerge from the trees, the expansive wilderness of Glen Muick opens up ahead. Herds of deer, as large as fifty and more can sometimes be spotted on the ridge. Shortly after a stretch which provides great views of the Dee and beyond, you will notice along the woods a stile, in line with a green hut. If you fancy a break, climb over it and follow the track down to the banks of the Dee. This stretch is used by anglers but when deserted is a great spot for simply soaking up the atmosphere.

Now you have two options. You can retrace your steps to the path, turn left and carry on until you reach the junction of the B976 where you turn left and follow the road until you reach an embankment. Or you can carry on along the river until you get to an open grassy patch. Here a wide track bears right and leads towards a clearly visible gate in a fence. Cross the field, continue up the embankment by the B976 and turn left.

Continue all the way to Bridge of Glen Muick. Cross and turn right for a short detour to the Victoria Memorial. Then retrace your steps and follow the road. Do take special care on blind corners. Cross bridge No. 5 above the Brackley Burn at Burnfoot Cottage. Carry on upwards to the high point Spinning Jenny named after a witch, where you will also find the smallest bridge of the walk. Blink and you’ll miss it!

At the junction, turn left to cross the Royal Bridge, opened by Queen Victoria in 1885 and from here walk straight through the village back to the car park.

Facilities: 159 pitches, electric hook-up, electric hook up, showers, shop, laundry, games room, gas

Description: large, pleasant site by the river Dee with open views across to the surrounding hills