Captivating Castles

Tap O'Noth is the second highest site in Scotland	From the top one can easily see the strategic advantage of this position	The strong wall of this settlement is still clearly visible	Also visible is the red vitrified or heat fused stonework and the rocks lying on the ground show evidence of having melted once	The information board at the car park provides insight into the history of Tap O'Noth

Built by the Northern Picts between 1000 BC and 1000AD, the impressive hillfort of Tap O’Noth is the second highest site (1791ft/563 metres) in Scotland. This typical construction of an elevated inland settlement surrounded by a strong wall clearly provided a distinct strategic advantage in unsettled times.

 A most interesting feature of this fort is the vitrified or heat-fused stonework. Archaeologists know that this was caused by exposure to incredibly high temperatures, originally interpreting it as a result of enemy fire.  However, recent evidence suggests a more methodical approach, possibly for the purpose of strengthening the walls

 Grid ref. 480284

Start at the car park. Turn left onto the track just past the information board and continue straight on. Take note of the faded warning sign about the bull in the field – it does exist! Climb over the stile and if the bull blocks the path, head left towards the narrow strip of tall Scots Pines and continue along the low stone wall. When all is clear rejoin the path through a short stretch of woodland. 

 At the next stile emerge into open country along a grassy track that bursts with the colours of red raspberries, yellow gorse and purple thistles in summer. To the left an undulating patchwork of fields spreads across the lower grounds, giving way to a layer of grassland dotted with trees and higher up, heather peppered with grey boulders. Up on your right, the hillfort is clearly visible and will remain in sight for the rest of the walk.

The track levels out, skirting the base of the hill. Soon you will catch sight of the expanse of Clashindarroch Forest below, extending to over 15,000 acres. Over the last century much of the original habitat was destroyed in favour of commercially viable trees. The Forestry Commission is now working on re-introducing native species like oak, birch, sycamore and Scots Pine. A tree planting project in May 2006 was a runner up in the Go Native! Planting for Biodiversity Awards. 

At a cross junction opposite a gate, turn right and follow the track through grassland towards Tap O’Noth.

The track bears left and leads uphill, gradually turning steeper and rocky underfoot.  Continue, skirting the summit in a south-easterly direction.  Shortly the track levels out, rounding eastwards. In view below is the village of Rhynie, famous for the tall Pictish Standing stone, the Rhynie Man. Found in 1978 it is the earliest figure carving found in Grampian to date.

Continue on as the track leads up to the eastern flank of the hillfort.  From here the views stretch as far as the North Sea and across the fields believed to be the location for the battle of Mons Graupius in AD 84.

As you enter, the hillfort walls curve away in an oblong shape, 100 by 30 yds. It is very easy to walk around the walls on the unusual red rocks, evidence of the vitrification process. Take a closer look at any of the larger samples strewn across the ground and you will notice a strong resemblance to lava-hardened volcanic rock.

There is still speculation as to whether this fort was occupied on a permanent basis. The grassy centre has thrown up slight traces of platforms on the south side, suggesting possible bases for wooden houses. And the water filled depression at the south end probably served as a cistern. Nobody will ever know the details for certain but with such commanding views in all directions it is easy to see why this hill was chosen as the location for a fort.

For the return journey re-trace your steps all the way back to the car park.   

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Wild Mountain Time

Corgarff Castle– 5 miles

Corgaff Castle stands lonely guard over the barren moorland	The machiolations high above the door have remained, and so has the star-shaped wall	The inside of the castle has been restored to the 18th century barracks used by Hanoverian garrisons, including graffiti on the walls	The vast, windswept landscape made many a soldier longing for home

The towerhouse of Corgarff Castle stands lonely guard over the barren moorland by the remote Lecht pass on Donside. Characteristic of this type of building is the first floor location of the vulnerable main door. Accessible only via a removable wooden stair this considerably lowered the chances of enemy entry. Stones could also be dropped or missiles shot from slots, or machiolations, installed high up above the door.

The curious star-shaped wall seen today was erected in the 18^th century by Hanoverian garrisons who used Corgarff Castle as a base to track down Jacobite rebels and later, illicit whisky smugglers.

 Grid reference: 253089

Please note that during the stalking season (September to October) these tracks have public access on Sundays only.

Park in the car park and head up to Corgarff Castle. About 50 yards before reaching the castle, walk through a field gate on your right and turn left immediately. With the castle on your left, cross the field by heading south. Climb over the stile and turn left.     Shortly, a narrow sheep track on the right will take you down to the main track. Turn right and head up the glen towards the woodlands, the only ones you will come across on this walk. 

This open landscape is dominated by swathes of purple heather in late August. Gradually all signs of habitation give way to wilderness, not to mention wild imagination. It readily conjures up images of patrolling Redcoats, or the sound of guns let rip in an ambush, maybe even a whiff of whisky from an illegal barrel that smashed on the ground as smugglers were hunted down in fierce pursuit.

Pass the woodlands of Scots Pine, larches and firs. The track is becoming steeper now. Shortly it swings to the right and upwards into moorland hillside. Keep your eyes open for deer and hares, often spotted around here.

Emerging from the glen, a sea of rounded mountains tops in the southeast seems to roll endlessly towards the horizon. In complete contrast, you will soon catch sight of the unusual skyline of Ben Avon (Ben A ‘an) in the southwest with its strange granite peaks that line its summit plateau like studs on a belt.

At a fork bear right and continue uphill where the path is becoming more overgrown. Follow it all the way to the top. A small slate cairn ahead on the plateau marks the 2302ft/702m summit of Carn Oighreag and there are fantastic views in all directions. The austere character of this windswept landscape instills a real sense of being a long way from civilisation.

Follow the track north-west across to another cairn where you will get great views down to Corgarff Castle and further west up the glen to where the river Don springs into life.

Continue all the way downhill. When the track joins a private road turn right and follow it back to the car park. The castle is worth a visit for its realistic recreation of the minimalist barracks environment, complete with graffiti on the ceiling.             Refreshments can be found at the Goodbrand shop and café, approximately a mile east on the A944.

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Ruin with a view

Dunnottar Castle - 4.5 miles

Stonehaven Harbour	The path winds along the edge of the sandstone cliff tops	Stonehaven War Memorial - take a quick detour	The L-plan design added to the original castle improved defences no end	Dunnottar Castle may seem impregnable but was destroyed and rebuilt several times

When the arrival of cannons necessitated the upgrading of the basic towerhouse a wing was added to the keep at right angles. This new L-plan style made it possible to defend the main entrance with covering fire from two flanking walls instead of just one.

 Dunnottar Castle’s L-plan keep is still visible today. Its dramatic ruins perch on a rocky headland with sheer cliffs on three sides that are constantly battered by the cold waves of the North Sea, reflecting the mood of its turbulent past as one of the key players in Scotland’s history.

 Grid reference: 878856

Start at the public car park to the left of Stonehaven Harbour. Follow the sign behind the information board indicating Dunnottar Castle Walk and shortly enter the picturesque harbour area. Turn right and follow the harbour walls past the Shore Pub. Turn right into Wallace Wynd. 

Turn left at the signpost ahead and climb a steep embankment. Follow the road and where this takes a sharp turn to the right, bear left towards the fields ahead. A narrow tarmac track picks up the trail in a gentle ascent. Pass the War Memorial which can be accessed through the kissing gate. 

 Soon Dunnottar Castle comes into full view. Climb a stile and follow the path as it winds along the edge of the sandstone cliffs that plunge down to the pebbled beach. Seagulls, seals and shags are local residents in this area but puffins are frequent visitors, too.

 Follow the path across a field, a footbridge and two stiles. Continue along the top of the cliffs all the way to the castle which can only be entered by crossing a deep chasm.

 Dunnottar Castle may seem impregnable but it had been destroyed and rebuilt several times. It took its last battering by Oliver Cromwell’s army in 1652 and surrendered after an eight month siege but not until after the Scottish Crown jewels were smuggled out in a bold rescue mission. Lowered down to the beach and hidden in bundles of seaweed, the brave minister’s wife carried them past Cromwell’s soldiers undetected.

Walk back up the steps and carry straight on towards the car park. Turn right onto the road, then left into a quiet lane. Follow this as it first curves right and then gently leads downhill to the main road. Cross over to the sandy pavement. Please be aware of the blind corner on the right.

Turn right and continue. At the road sign to Dunnottar Church, turn left. After crossing the Burn of Glaslaw, turn right by the waymarker, signposting Carron Gate and Shell House.

 Fork right and follow the path down into the lush little glen which leads to the Shell House, a curious structure resembling a beehive. Built in the early 1800’s its beautiful interior is decorated with thousands of different types of seashells.

Continue and turn right by the signpost marked Carron Gate. Turn right at another signpost and walk through the gate which leads into a small housing estate. Cross over the mini-roundabout and at the T-junction, turn right onto the main road.

Pass the Invercarron Resource Centre and cross the road, heading in a diagonal direction towards a house marked with a sign ‘Dunnottar Avenue’. Follow the narrow tarmac lane on its left along the banks of the river Carron. Cross the white bridge and head up Ann Street. Take the next turn right and walk to Market Square.

Continue straight on and cross the road by the traffic light. Head for the black signpost opposite indicating ‘Harbour via Baywalk’. At the beach turn right and follow the boardwalk all the way back to the car park.

Finish.

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Baroque Indulgence

Duff House 5.5 miles

Although very grand indeed, Duff House was never completed, and is still missing its two wings	You will pass the ice-house on the walk, soon followed by the Mausoleum	From the bridge you'll get fine views down into the gorge	The walk combines different landscapes: parkland, woods fields...	...and the sea

Once peaceful times made defended strongholds redundant, architectural focus shifted to creating extravagant showpiece homes that would impress.

Built in the 1730’s by William Adam for the first Earl of Fife, Duff House is a fine example of the lavish baroque style. Yet it remains incomplete, missing two grand wings which were part of the original design. An argument over escalating costs had stopped the work and sadly, the owner never moved in. 

Duff House is now an outpost for the National Galleries of Scotland with a rich collection by artists including Chippendale, El Greco, Raeburn and Gainsborough.

 Grid ref.: 689633

Start at the public car park by the playing fields. Turn left at the large signpost at indicating Wrack Wood, Mausoleum and Icehouse.  Follow the track, passing between the piers of the Fife Gates where you enter woodlands of beech, maple, and chestnut. This leafy area was developed by the 2^nd Earl of Fife in the naturalistic style of Capability Brown. In summer you will find bright orange salmonberries. A native of North America, they are said to have been introduced to Scotland as pheasant food. Although not recommended raw, salmonberries can be made into jams, jellies and wines.

Continue along the track and at a fork signposting Orchard B&B bear left and walk through a gate. Soon you will reach the icehouse. Set back from the track it may look like an insignificant little mound but descend the steps and look inside, and the icehouse reveals itself as a huge underground structure.  Properly packed blocks of ice could last for up to three years in there. Carry on, now and then catching tantalising glimpses of the river through the trees, a planned feature of the original landscape design.  Pass the impressive gothic mausoleum and follow the track which gently undulates through pleasant woodlands.  At a fork by a house, Pairc na Feidh, bear left onto a tarmac track with fields on your right and woodlands on your left.

Continue along the track and at the next fork by a tall redwood tree bear left downhill and shortly arrive at the Bridge of Alvah which spans a dramatic gorge at a height of 40 ft.  Enjoy the spectacular views down to the steep rocky crags and deep pools.

Bear left at a fork after the bridge and head uphill through woodlands awash with purple foxgloves in summer. Pass Montcoffer House and soon you will be rewarded with uninterrupted views across rolling farmland.

The track soon turns into a single track road. There are beautiful hedgerows here, bursting with honeysuckle and hawthorn.  Pass the farmhouse at Mains of Montcoffer and continue along a straight stretch to a junction signposting Montcoffer. Turn left. After around 100 yards turn left again by a house.

Ahead, the track suddenly seems to peter out and lead into nothing but hedgerows.  Squeeze through the shrubs to find a narrow path which quickly widens. Continue along this beautiful stretch past broom, gorse, clover and blackberries.

Soon the path dives into dense woodlands and continues downhill, finally emerging into the open by Gaveny Cottage. There are fine views across the Moray Firth, down to Banff and Banff Bridge.

Continue downhill, walk through Macduff Distillery grounds and up to the main road. Turn left and shortly cross the seven arched Banff Bridge. Follow the main road back towards Banff, turn left at the signpost to Duff House and return to the car park.

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